That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
 Eucratides II of Bactria
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 Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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 Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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 Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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 Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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 Marathon, Arrowheads
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 Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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 Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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 Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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 Thebes, Tombstone
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 Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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 Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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 Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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 The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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 Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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 Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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 Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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 Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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 Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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 Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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 Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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 Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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 Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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 Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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 Zeus and Ganymedes
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 Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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 Lycian portrait of Omphale
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 Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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 Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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 Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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 Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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 Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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 Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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 Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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 Hellenistic ruler
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 Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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 Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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 Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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 Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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 Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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 Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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 Lead figurine of Athena
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 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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 Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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 Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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 Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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 Argos, Heraion, Sima
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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 Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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 Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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 Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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 Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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 Thebes, Head of Artemis
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 Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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 Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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 Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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 Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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 Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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 Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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 Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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 Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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 Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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 Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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 Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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 Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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 Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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 Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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 Decree of Tefnakht
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 Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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