That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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Zeus and Ganymedes
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Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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Lycian portrait of Omphale
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Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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Thebes, Tombstone
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Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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Eucratides II of Bactria
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Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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Argos, Heraion, Sima
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Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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Marathon, Arrowheads
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Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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Decree of Tefnakht
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Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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Thebes, Head of Artemis
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Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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Lead figurine of Athena
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Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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Hellenistic ruler
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Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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