That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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Thebes, Tombstone
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The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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Lycian portrait of Omphale
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Hellenistic ruler
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Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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Marathon, Arrowheads
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Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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Thebes, Head of Artemis
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Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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Decree of Tefnakht
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Eucratides II of Bactria
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Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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Zeus and Ganymedes
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Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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Lead figurine of Athena
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Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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Argos, Heraion, Sima
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Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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