That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
 Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
|
 Lycian portrait of Omphale
|
 Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
|
 Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
|
 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
|
 Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
|
 Marathon, Arrowheads
|
 Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
|
 Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
|
 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
|
 Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
|
 Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
|
 Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
|
 Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
|
 Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
|
 Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
|
 Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
|
 Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
|
 Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
|
 Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
|
 Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
|
 Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
|
 Thermopylae, Arrowheads
|
 Corinth, Plate with Demeter
|
 Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
|
 Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
|
 Zeus and Ganymedes
|
 Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
|
 The fight for the body of Patroclus.
|
 Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
|
 Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
|
 Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
|
 Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
|
 Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
|
 Melos, Statue of Poseidon
|
 Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
|
 Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
|
 Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
|
 Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
|
 Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
|
 Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
|
 Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
|
 Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
|
 Athens, Varvakeion Athena
|
 Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
|
 Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
|
 Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
|
 Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
|
 Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
|
 Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
|
 Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
|
 Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
|
 Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
|
 Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
|
 Megara, Statue of Dionysus
|
 Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
|
 Eucratides II of Bactria
|
 Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
|
 Argos, Heraion, Sima
|
 Lead figurine of Athena
|
 Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
|
 Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
|
 Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
|
 Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
|
 Decree of Tefnakht
|
 Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
|
 Hellenistic ruler
|
 Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
|
 Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
|
 Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
|
 Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
|
 Thebes, Head of Artemis
|
 Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
|
 Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
|
 Thebes, Tombstone
|
 Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
|