That was not very clever: visiting the National Archaeological Museum on the last day of a two week trip through northern and central Greece. Of course, it was a nice summary of everything we’ve seen, but I think it would have been better to start over here. Ever a teacher, I might have used the museum’s splendid collection of sculpture to explain to my companions the development of Greek art.
That’s what you’ll find on the first floor: lots of sculpture in a series of rooms surrounding a large hall, which is devoted to Mycenaean art. There, you will find the golden objects from Mycenae that Schliemann found. The sculpture rooms surround it. Your tour starts with some kouroi and you can easily follow the growth to greater accuracy in representing the human body. When you’ve finished about a third of your tour, the Greek sculptors have mastered every aspect of anatomy, and you will pass along many classical sculptures, including two dazzling copies of the Diadumenus and the Cnidian Aphrodite. After that, more sculpture: the fourth century, Hellenism, and finally the Roman age.
On the ground floor, there’s also a series of rooms that contain metal art. Here, you will see the Anticythera Mechanism, but also collections of arrowheads from Marathon and Thermopylae. The Egyptian part – also on the ground floor – is a bit odd in a museum dedicated to Greek art, but the collection is too small to be exposed in a museum of its own and too important to keep stored away. In the Hellenistic part of the Egyptian collection, I noticed a statue of Hephaestion that I had never seen before.
Upstairs, you will find a marvelous collection of pottery and some objects that don’t fit anywhere else, like the Lemnian inscription, written in a language related to Etruscan. Next to it is a section dedicated to the investigations at Santorini, where some splendid frescoes have been found.
Do not forget to visit the basement. There’s a little café with a garden, where you will see some of the sculptures found in the Anticythera wreck. They have a certain beauty because they are partly eroded. I found the giant Heracles absolutely fascinating.
This museum was visited in 1989, 1992, 2004, 2007, 2010.
Megara, Statue of a Roman emperor (Trajan or Hadrian)
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Epidauros, Temple of Artemis, Nike
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Eretria, Lekythos (Bosanquet Painter)
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Oropos, Aeolian-Ionic capital
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Eleusis, Relief of Demeter, Triptolemus, and Kore
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Athens, Temple of Zeus, Portrait of Polemo of Laodicea
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Dodona, Figurine of Zeus Keraunos
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Athens, Kerameikos, Skull of Myrthis
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Argos, Heraion, Amazonomachy
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Larisa, Tombstone of a man with a hat
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Olympia, Head of the boxer Satyros
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Thebes, Tombstone
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Sparta, Statue of Julia Aquilia Severa, damaged after her death
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Athens, Statue of a Minotaur
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Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Palladion
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Smyrna, Portrait of Caligula, reworked to resemble Titus
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Lycian portrait of Omphale
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Athens, Agora, Late Geometric pyxis
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Lemnos, Tombstone of an Etruscan (?) warrior
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Athens, Stoa of Attalus, Attalus II Philadelphus
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Piraeus, Funerary stela of Damasistrate
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Nysa, Bouleuterion, "Little Refugee"
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Artemisium, Statue of Zeus
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Piraeus, Votive stela of a reclining Dionysus
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Mycene, House of the Warrior Krater, Warrior Krater
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Lebadeia, Relief of Trophonius
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Zeus and Ganymedes
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Thermopylae, Arrowheads
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Alexandria, Alexander the Great (part of a group with Hephaestion)
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Mycene, Dagger with lion hunt
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Melos, Statue of Poseidon
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Mycene, Boar's tusk helmet
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Corinth, Plate with Demeter
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Argos, Heraion, Sima
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Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of antelopes
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Decree of Tefnakht
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Marathon, Arrowheads
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Lead figurine of Athena
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Athens, Kerameikos, Siren
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Corinth, Relief of a hoplite
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The fight for the body of Patroclus.
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Eleusis, Tombstone of a warrior
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Aegina, Ptolemy VI Philometor
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Hellenistic ruler
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Athens, Varvakeion Athena
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Piraeus, Head of a bearded god
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Eleusis, Temple F, Cecrops and Herse
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Alexandria, Hephaestion (part of a group with Alexander)
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Pharsalus, Krater with a four-horse chariot
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Sais, Temple of Neith, Statuette
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Aegina, Tombstone of a young man, holding a bird
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Eretria, Gymnasium, Statue of Cleonicus
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Akrotiri, Building B, Room B1, Wall painting of boxers
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Argos, Theater, Statue of Aphrodite
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Piraeus, Julian the Apostate
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Eucratides II of Bactria
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Piraeus, Statue of a woman or Demeter
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Aegina, Temple of Apollo, Statue of a wounded warrior
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Eleusis, Relief of a drunk Heracles
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Argos, Relief of the Doryphorus of Polykleitos
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Gomphoi, Relief of Odysseus and Amphicleia
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Megiste, Bellerophon sarcophagus.
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Argos, Heraion, West pediment, Head of Hera
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Megara, Statue of Dionysus
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Athens, Kerameikos, Base of the statue of a wrestler
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Athens, Kerameikos, Dipylon krater
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Piraeus, Funerary stela with ball players
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Larisa, Tombstone of Polyxena
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Chalcis-Vromousa, Head of a woman (Roman copy of a Greek original)
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Thebes (?), Block statue of Prince Horwedja, governor and high priest in Heliopolis
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Athens, Pnyx, Lenormant Athena
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Mycene, Wall painting ("La Parisienne")
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Athens, Kerameikos, Alexander with a Lion's Pelt
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Piraeus, Theater, Head of Dionysus (classicizing)
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Mycene, Wall painting of a griffin with a warrior
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Thebes, Head of Artemis
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